Far North Queensland has some of the most beautiful, lush landscapes in all of Australia, so it’s no wonder it’s a very popular place for visitors. With year-round warm weather, a stunning coastline, forest hiking and some really cool animals, you simply have to make the journey north. A visit to Cape Tribulation and the Daintree Rainforest will be an unforgettable experience, even if, like me, you get caught in the eponymous rain of the rainforest. You can spend multiple days exploring the area, with hiking trails and beautiful beaches, or just do a cool short road trip from the nearby town of Port Douglas or the northern city of Cairns.
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Port Douglas – Gateway to Cape Tribulation
To the north of Cairns lies the small, trendy town of Port Douglas, the nearest large town to the Daintree rainforest and Cape Tribulation. Although it felt at times like a retirement village for millionaires, there are plenty of backpackers and a buzzing night life in the town, so it’s a good spot to be based in. Along with a beautiful beach and gorgeous cafes, you’ll have no trouble finding something to occupy a few days. If you’re in town on a Monday night between June and October, head to the Central Hotel at 7pm for their free outdoor big screen movie showing (if you look sad and lonely enough, they might even give you some free popcorn!). They also have quizzes, live sport and a fun atmosphere.
A lot of visitors to the area come on day trips from Cairns, and that’s very doable, but I think Port Douglas is worth spending some time in if you can. However, the real treat lies even further north again.
Pit Stop: Mossman Gorge
Daintree National Park is the largest continuous stretch of rainforest in Australia, and has some really beautiful scenery. Shortly after leaving Port Douglas, your first stop is Mossman Gorge, the southern section of the park. Here, a 2.4 km track runs along the Mossman River, across a suspension bridge and then in a loop through some beautiful rainforest.
At times I felt like I was the only person for miles, just me and the great tall trees around me. Dreamtime Walks are also available to visitors, with local Kuku Yalanji guides showing you traditional plant uses and explaining the history and myths of their people. The visitor centre also has a café and free hot showers (absolute heaven when you’re living in your car, like I was). I also managed to almost step on a small snake on the walk back along the road – I don’t know who got a bigger fright, me or the snake!
Arriving at Cape Tribulation
Continuing north, the only way to visit Cape Tribulation is via the ferry across the Daintree River. Always check if the ferry is running before heading north, as it has been damaged by flooding at times in the past. The day I chose to explore the Cape Tribulation area, it was the first real rainy day I’d had all trip. But I kept going nonetheless, determined to make the best of it. And for the most part, the weather was cooperative – raining while I drove and brightening when I ventured out onto the beautiful beaches.
Once you’re across the river, I’d recommend driving straight up to the small town of Cape Tribulation, which takes about forty-five minutes, then spending the day (if you’re just doing a day trip) wandering back down towards the ferry. Many people stay a few days in the area, and there’s certainly enough to keep you amused if you do decide to stay. But it’s also a great day trip and you can fit a surprising amount into your limited time.
If you’re looking for good food, in the Cape Tribulation village is the Turtle Rock Café, a nice place to stop for lunch (or hide from the rain, in my case).
Beaches and Boardwalks
Almost all the beaches in the area are accessible by specially built boardwalks through the forest and mangroves. Not only do these boardwalks offer increased accessibility, they also protect the important habitat you’re walking through. Mangroves are one of the most critical and vulnerable habitats, as they store carbon, prevent coastal erosion and support a huge range of wildlife around the world.
Cape Tribulation itself is a beautiful beach right at the end of the sealed road. From here, only 4WD vehicles should continue north. The curving arc of golden sand is the only gap between the rainforest and the blue ocean. A short walk through mangroves brings you to a lookout over the beach. Just south of the tiny forest peninsula is yet another gorgeous beach to wander – Myall Beach and the Dubuji Boardwalk.
Note on swimming: it’s often recommended that you don’t swim in this area, especially in the creeks, because of the high presence of crocodiles. You have been warned!
Daintree Dicovery Centre
When visiting Cape Tribulation, if you’re not on a very tight budget (like I was), there’s a huge amount of activities to do – horse riding along the beach, wildlife river cruises, zip lining, ocean safaris out to the Great Barrier Reef, farmstays, etc. The famous Daintree Discovery Centre is an interactive rainforest experience, with a tall lookout tower and cassowaries commonly spotted (one of the animal species that was on my unique Australian wildlife bucket list).
The Jindalba boardwalk right next to the Discovery Centre is definitely worth doing. I started this short walk in my flip-flops and a string top; within minutes it was pouring! Luckily the canopy above kept most of the deluge off me. And I have to say, I loved it all the more for the rain! The colours of the forest were so much more vibrant, the smells more real, everything just felt more ALIVE. And anyway, what’s the rainforest without some rain?
Viewpoints to visit
While most of your day will be spent in the jungle or on the beach, there are a few places with sweeping views of the entire area. The easiest to get to is the Mount Alexandra Viewpoint, because you can drive right up to the lookout.
If you want something (a lot) more challenging, then you can try the Mount Sorrow Ridge Trail. This hard hike takes around 4-6 hours and requires a high level of fitness, so it’s more for adrenaline seekers than casual visitors.
Daintree Ice Cream – don’t miss it!
Another thing to mention – do not, I repeat, DO NOT get on that ferry without stopping for some ice cream, weather be damned! You’ve got two options. One, the Floravilla Ice Cream Factory, which offers a gazillion flavours, including Guinness, Honey, and Sweet Potato and Ginger, as well the usuals like Chocolate and Strawberry. The second option is the famed Daintree Ice Cream Company, known for using unusual fruits grown on the property. Just four flavours are created at any one time, and you get all four in one pot. I’m a total scaredy-cat when it comes to trying new foods, so the Jackfruit, Yellow Sapote and other strange flavours unfortunately went untasted that day. If you’re more adventurous than me (and you probably are), grab a pot and eat it at the nearby Cow Bay Beach, a really nice spot.
Getting to Cape Tribulation
Though it’s a bit out of the way, there are two ways you can visit the area, depending on your budget and timing. Unfortunately, public transport isn’t really an option, as while there is a bus that goes between Cairns/Port Douglas to Cape Tribulation a couple of times a week, it doesn’t stop anywhere along the way, so it’s not a good option for exploring the area.
1. Renting a car
This is the best way to visit Cape Tribulation because you have total freedom to set your own schedule and visit the places you want. You can rent a car in either Port Douglas or Cairns (it’s typically cheaper in Cairns, but requires more driving). If you don’t go beyond Cape Tribulation town, any car is fine because the main roads are fully sealed and easy to navigate.
2. Guided Daintree & Cape Tribulation Tours
Want to take all the hassle out of planning a day trip to Cape Tribulation? There are loads of organised guided tours from both Cairns and Port Douglas. Most are day trips, with early morning pick ups and evenings drop offs, but there are also multi-day trips available. If you’re travelling solo, these trips can be a great way to meet other travellers, too.
Staying longer in Cape Tribulation
Having spent a day in the area, I’m not surprised many people want to stay longer. This is a place where you can really get immersed in pristine nature and a lot of the accommodation is made up of eco lodges. A lot of places to stay are located along the road running through the park, with some concentrated in Daintree village, Cape Tribulation village and Cow Bay.
There is one backpacker hostel in the area, but it doesn’t have the best reviews so it might be better looking for something a little more private. No matter where you stay, it will be a bit of a higher cost than in Port Douglas or Cairns.
Between the amazing views, the beautiful landscapes, the activities and the ice cream, you just have to visit Cape Tribulation. It’s pretty easy to see why it’s one of my top Australia experiences. Add it to that Australia bucket list of yours, now!
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