My first thought upon walking down the streets of Luang Prabang was ‘where is everyone?’. After the crazy hustle and bustle of the streets of Hanoi in neighbouring Vietnam, I couldn’t believe just how quiet Laos’ old capital was (granted, it’s tiny in comparison, but SE Asia continuously taught me how crowded places can get). This sleepy, temple-strewn city sits at the meeting point of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and was one of my absolute favourite places I visited during my four-month trip to the region (and definitely my favourite place in Laos). If you’re after serene streets, natural beauty and cultural experiences, Luang Prabang (and Laos in general), definitely needs to be on your bucket list. Here are just some of the reasons why you need to visit Luang Prabang.
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Quiet Streets & Peaceful Mornings
As I mentioned above, Luang Prabang is such a breath of fresh air in comparison to the insanely busy cities of Vietnam (and Cambodia and Thailand…). The streets here are blissfully quiet, with the occasional tuk-tuk trundling past and cyclists lazily making their way along the tree-lined roads. The main area of the Old Town, concentrated around the National Museum/Royal Palace, can be busy at times, as can the top of nearby Phousi Hill in the late afternoon (highly recommend seeing sunset from here, but get there early if you want a good spot, as it gets crowded, read more about it below), but overall, I found Luang Prabang to be a really peaceful place, which is one of the reasons I visited not once, but twice during my trip to Laos. The quiet streets also mean that cycling is a really great way to get around during a visit to Luang Prabang. Walking through the town, I could definitely see why it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you know I love those!
Every morning, the monks of the town perform their morning alms procession (Sai Bat), and it’s become a popular thing for tourists to watch. However, I have heard mixed opinions on this, with many saying it has become more of a tourist trap than a meaningful, cultural experience. Also, since it starts between 5.30 and 6am, it wasn’t high on my list of things to do in Luang Prabang (hey there, chronic fatigue, my constant companion).
The Beautiful Temples
This is a town with a lot of temples, despite it’s small size. They’re all in perfect condition, no ruins here. Each are worth stopping in as you pass by, even if just for a quick look. Some are historical, centuries old but perfectly preserved, some more modern, built in the previous century. Each holds a special significance to the people of Luang Prabang. Temple fatigue in South East Asia is real, but they are still worth seeing if you visit Luang Prabang.
Some of the temples that are worth visiting are Wat Xiengthong, Wat Sensoukharam, Wat Nong Sikhounmuang and Wat Pa Phai. Many of the temples are free to enter, but a couple of the main ones have a small entry fee. I particularly liked Wat Xieng Mouane, as much for the beautiful little alley to its gate as for the temple itself.
Remember your temple etiquette! These are sacred spaces and as such, rules apply. Dress modestly (I always carry a scarf and/or a long skirt in my bag for those hot days), making sure your shoulders and knees are covered. Keep noise to a minimum, always ask permission before taking photos of people and don’t disturb worshippers. And make sure you take your shoes off when entering a temple!
Enjoy Sunset over the Mekong
As I mentioned before, Phousi Hill is the most popular sunset watching spot in town, so it gets really busy at the top, which isn’t a very big spot to begin with. But you have to do this at least once. I suggest going an hour or two before sunset, to get a good spot. Bring a book (or a companion) and enjoy the views as the sun edges towards the horizon. The Mekong is an impressive river, and looking out over it as the setting sun makes its water sparkle is an unforgettable reason to visit Luang Prabang. Just remember, this is actually a temple, so be respectful.
Another way to watch sunset on the Mekong is on a boat! Along the river, there are numerous companies offering river tours, and sunset tours are particularly possible. Because there is so much competition for business, prices for these tours are really good value for money. You can also book boat tours online that are combined with other activities if you want to sort it in advance.
Luang Prabang’s Night Market
As soon as the sun starts to go down, the main street of the town becomes pedestrianised, with a large part of it taken over with market stalls. There’s a huge range of items to buy here, and though some may question their authenticity, the decent prices make it worth your while. There are lanterns, scarves, bags, jewellery, art and more souvenirs. The western end of the market is entirely dedicated to food, and it’s always packed with people – visitors and locals – getting an affordable dinner. I walked through this market almost every evening during my visit to Luang Prabang, and I don’t think I went without buying something once! I particularly liked the keyrings made of bomb fragments – a harsh reminder of the pain Laos has gone through (and is still going through in some places).
A note on markets in SE Asia – this is where your privilege as a foreigner needs to be remembered. Yes, haggling is normal, and yes, you will be overcharged as a foreigner. However, keep it in check. Don’t forget that even if you’re travelling on a tight budget, it’s still going to be a lot more than entire families live on. Don’t chase the satisfaction of getting the cheapest possible price, find a compromise. A bit of generosity doesn’t go astray, either. I often don’t haggle at all if I think the initial price is reasonable (plus I hate haggling). On more than one occasion I saw a tourist haggling quite aggressively over a difference in price that was equal to about 10c. Absolutely ridiculous, and disrespectful, in my opinion. Just something to keep in mind when travelling.
Discover Laos’ Dark History
Speaking of bombs, did you know that Laos is the most-bombed country in the world? Between 1964 and 1973, during the Vietnam War, the United States carried out a secret bombing campaign aimed at cutting off North Vietnamese supply routes that ran through eastern Laos — known as the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Over two million tonnes of bombs were dropped, more than were used in all of Europe during the Second World War. Many of those bombs failed to explode, and unexploded ordnance (UXO) still poses a serious danger in rural areas today, affecting farming, livelihoods and everyday life. At the time, Laos was also going through a civil war of its own, a war that ended in the communist takeover of the country and the arrest of the royal family, most of whom later died in prison work camps.
There are two places you should visit in Luang Prabang where you can learn more about the country’s history: the Royal Palace and the UXO Laos Visitor Center, which is a short walk outside the main town centre. While the latter is free and is a great introduction into this part of Laos’ history, the Royal Palace (National Museum) has a small entry fee, but it’s worth it to see the beautiful interiors and belongings of the Royal Family before they were ousted.
If you’re heading north to Nong Khiaw, you’ll have a chance to see more of the area’s history up close, including unexploded bombs in rice fields and caves that housed hundreds of people for years.
Exploring Beautiful Waterfalls
Kuang Si Waterfalls is one of the most popular day trips from Luang Prabang, and it’s easy to see why. About 40 minutes out of town, the falls cascade through several levels into clear, blue-green pools where you can swim and cool off. They actually look really similar to Erawan Falls in Thailand. It can get busy later in the day, so it’s best to go early if you’d like a quieter visit. There’s a walking path beside the falls that leads up to the top. Bring water, a towel and something to eat – it’s the kind of place you’ll want to linger in. I highly recommend going via public transport or hiring a driver instead of an organised tour because there’s nothing worse than wanting to spend longer in a beautiful place to just take it all in, but needing to rush back for a pickup time. However, if a tour is something you want to do (yes, they do take all the hassle out of figuring things out for yourself), then there are so many options available.
There is also a small moon bear sanctuary that you pass through to get to the falls. I initially planned to avoid the sanctuary before I realised you couldn’t, because I have really strict views on what constitutes ethical wildlife tourism. However, I was pleasantly surprised by Free The Bears and their sanctuary (always be careful with this word, as there are no rules around who can use it). The bears appear in good health, there is no contact between the bears and visitors (essential for ethical places) and the enclosures, while small, are as good as they can be considering the circumstances. Overall, I was happy with the sanctuary conditions, but there definitely needs to be more supervision by staff, because about 90% of the visitors I saw completely ignored the ‘no noise’ signs. While the bears didn’t seem too stressed and some were sleeping really close to the tourists, the level of shouting and banging on the glass by visitors to get the bears’ attention was awful. I actually snapped at several of them (all older tourists, typical). So please have some respect for the animals if you visit Luang Prabang and Kuang Si Falls.
Speaking of ethical wildlife tourism, many tour offices in Luang Prabang still offer and advertise elephant riding activities. While any activity that includes touching wild animals is unethical, riding is one of the worst and I can’t believe there is still so much ignorance surrounding it. Just don’t do it, it’s as simple as that.
Luang Prabang’s Caves
Though I didn’t do any cave tours, they are a popular activity to do when visiting Luang Prabang. It’s not possible to get to any of them by public transport. The most popular caves to visit are the Pak Ou Caves, 25 kilometres upriver from Luang Prabang, with day tours often combining a visit here with Kuang Si. However, I have heard it can be very crowded, with multiple boatloads of people arriving at once. If you don’t want to go on an organised group tour, you can share a boat taxi with others, leaving from in front of Saffron Coffee (check Google Maps). While I didn’t visit the caves, seeing the thousands of Buddha statues left in the caves by worshippers over hundreds of years does sound like a cool experience.
Great food
Disclaimer – I am not a foodie. In fact, I am quite the opposite. Being autistic, I am known as a pretty fussy eater, and trying new foods is not a priority for me when I travel (cue *gasps* from all my readers). Which is actually one of the reasons I loved Luang Prabang so much – there is a really big range of Western food to be found here. I can practically hear the eye rolls from some of you. But if you’re like me, and find comfort in familiar food, or else you’ve been in SE Asia for a while and want a break from local meals, then here are my suggestions:
Yuni Yupoun – a beautifully decorated restaurant offering a mix of Laotian and international food, including multiple vegetarian dishes. The falafel is really tasty, something you won’t find in many places in Laos!
Manola Café Bar – pizza is my comfort food, so even bad pizza is good pizza in my opinion. However, the pizza here isn’t just good by Asian standards, it’s good by Italian standards! I went multiple times.
Indigo Café – located right at the start of the night market, this busy café has a big selection of bakery items, so if you’re craving a pastry, this is the place to go.
The Happy Cat – this vegetarian restaurant doesn’t just offer really great food, but also cute cats to watch (and pet if they deign to grace you with their presence like the royalty they are). The owner does a lot of work in the community to help the stray animals of Luang Prabang, so by eating here (and maybe buying some pretty merchandise) you’re also helping a great cause.
Viewpoint Café – I didn’t actually eat here, but it was the perfect spot for a cool drink after walking the length of the peninsula the town sits on, overlooking where the Mekong and the Nam Khan rivers meet.
Accommodation in Luang Prabang
Where I stayed: Downtown Hostel. Just a short walk from the centre, on a quiet street, this clean and comfortable hostel is fantastic value. Breakfast is included (lots to choose from), there is a nice seating area that was always very social (or if you just want a corner to work in), and the dorms come with privacy curtains, lights and charging sockets (although this is pretty standard in SE Asian hostels now). Definitely recommend. I visited Luang Prabang more than once and stayed here each time.
Other accommodation: Luang Prabang has no shortage of accommodation options to suit every budget. From backpacker hostels to luxury hotels, and local guesthouses in between, it’s not hard to find somewhere great to stay. The small size of the town also means everywhere is within walking distance.
Practical Information:
- Language: The main language in Laos is Lao, though many people in Luang Prabang speak at least some English, especially in hotels, restaurants and tourist areas. A few basic Lao phrases are always appreciated – even a simple “sabaidee” (hello) or “khop chai” (thank you) goes a long way.
- Currency: The local currency is the Lao kip (LAK). Cash is still king, particularly outside the main tourist spots, and certainly in the markets and on public transport. Try to hang on to small kip notes for these occasions, as sometimes bigger ones will be refused if they don’t have a lot of change. ATMs are easy to find in Luang Prabang, with several along the main strip.
- Getting around: Luang Prabang is compact enough to explore on foot or by bicycle. For longer trips, tuk-tuks and shared songthaews (basically bigger tuk-tuks) are affordable and easy to find. Scooters are available for hire but be cautious – local traffic can be unpredictable, and helmets are a must.
- Weather: Luang Prabang has a tropical climate with a dry season (November to April) and a wet season (May to October). The coolest, most comfortable months to visit are between November and February, while March and April can be very hot. The rain brings lush scenery, but also slippery paths, so pack accordingly.
- Staying Connected: the rise of eSIMs means that it’s really easy to get online, and if you purchase one before your trip, you’ll be connected from the moment you land. I’ve used Airalo in multiple countries now – including Laos – and have always been happy with them.
I hope you’ve found this post helpful for planning your visit to Luang Prabang! I absolutely love this town and could see myself spending longer there if I ever went back. Let me know your thoughts and share your stories in the comments if you’ve been there too!
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