Before my visit to La Garrotxa, a beautiful volcanic region near Catalonia’s alpine border, I had never heard of this place. I certainly never saw it listed as a ‘top ten places to visit in Spain’, or even mentioned as a ‘hidden gem’. But a hidden gem, this certainly is. When visitors come to Catalonia, it’s usually Barcelona and the Costa Brava they venture to. But that means they’re missing out on an amazing and unique trip through gorgeous landscapes and fascinating culture. The La Garrotxa area has created an incredible community of residents who are immensely proud and passionate about their home. This in turn has led to a region-wide movement towards sustainable, responsible and local-driven tourism, from nature-based activities to traditional culinary experiences.
Disclaimer: this website contains affiliate links. If you click on these links and make a purchase or booking, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps me to continue this blog and help wildlife around the world!
I visited the La Garrotxa area as a guest of OH! Garrotxa, the local tourism board, and Soy Ecoturista, but all opinions in this post are my own. This three-day itinerary is perfect for first-time visitors, and will give you a feel for the region (and a desire to return!).
Heading to the south of Spain? Check out my other posts on the Andalucían region.
Day 1: Olot
Olot is the main town in the La Garrotxa area, and it’s the perfect jumping off pointing for any visit. Its interesting history and architecture, ranging from Baroque churches to ornate Modernist architecture, sit amongst four volcanos spread throughout the city. Don’t miss the Cloister of the former Carmen Convent, now an art school, the Church of Sant Esteve d’Olot, and La Casa Solà Morales and Library Drac, two of the city’s most beautiful Modernist buildings. You can also visit the Mercat d’Olot, a collective of local producers in the heart of the city.
One of the best things to do in Olot is the Espai Cràter. This incredible addition to the city is not only a wealth of information about the geology of the area (and very fun to spend time in no matter your age!), but is an architectural marvel in itself. Its design, from the colours and materials, to the flowing shapes, pays homage to the volcanos of the region. Its interactive exhibits are the perfect place to learn more about the Garrotxa area, so don’t miss this place when visiting Olot.
You can see most of Olot’s sights in half a day, so use the other time, whether the morning or the afternoon, to rent a bike and experience a section of the Via Verde del Carrilet Greenway between Olot and the Costa Brava. The entire length of the greenway is over 100 kilometres, with many visitors taking several days to cycle the whole thing. However, if you don’t have much time, then the first section from Olot to Vall d’en Bas is perfect. Grab your bike from Garrotxa amb Bici, situated right at the start of the greenway, and head along the old railway track into the beautiful countryside.
If you visit La Garrotxa on a Monday, check out Olot’s weekly market on the Passeig de l’Escultor Miquel Blay. This market has been going since the 13th century!
Day 2: La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park
Today is the day you get up close with the volcanos of La Garrotxa. However, if you’re thinking of smoking cones like Vesuvius or Etna, this experience is a little different. The volcanos of this region are monogenetic, which means each one only erupted once, unlike the more famous volcanos around the world that erupt continuously or multiple times. This has given the region a unique landscape, with over forty volcanic cones now covered in green forests and open fields.
The word Garrotxa means ‘difficult to walk’, referring to the rough, volcanic terrain of the area. However, the natural park is full of well-maintained trails and easy-to-use public transport, so it’s definitely not difficult to walk now! The Rumbus stops at all the major sights through the park, starting in Olot, so it’s the perfect, sustainable way to get around. It’s also very budget-friendly, with all-day tickets for just €2 each. Hop on the bus in Olot, stopping first at the Croscat Volcano, where an old quarry lets you see the exposed volcanic rocks. Walk around the perimeter of the volcano and through the Fageda d’en Jordà, a beautiful beech forest well-known by all Catalans that grows on top of a lava flow. In general, October to December is the most popular time to visit, because the autumn colours are in full swing, a rare thing to see in this part of Spain.
The bus also passes through Santa Pau, a beautiful medieval village that is worth stopping in before heading back to Olot.
Day 3: Castellfollit de la Roca & Sant Joan les Fonts
This was probably my favourite part of my visit to La Garrotxa. Both these towns are within a short distance of Olot, reachable by bus in just a few minutes, or along some of the area’s many walking/cycling routes. Castellfollit de la Roca is a small medieval town that sits on a 40 metre-high basalt cliff, created by multiple eruptions, one occurring 217,000 years ago, the second 192,000 years ago. Walk through the quiet town to the viewpoint at the old church on the eastern edge of the cliff, taking in the beautiful valley scenery that opens up towards the Mediterranean. Then, take the ancient Roman road (Carrer de la Font) down to the valley floor to see the impressive town and basalt columns from below. The best view is from the bridge crossing the Fluvià river.
The nearby town of Sant Joan les Fonts has equally impressive lava flows to discover, and this time, you can get really up close and personal with them. Behind the the main parish church you can see old industrial buildings once housing a factory on the river. If you walk down to the river bed, you can see amazing geological formations of volcanic rock that occurred across three different eruptions. And if you want to go right up to the columns themselves, you can follow the Les Tres Colades walking trail around its full loop, starting from the church. Be careful if you do go down to the river, the previous path was washed away in a flood and has never been restored, so there will be some clambering. It’s best to approach from the walking trail than from the initial viewpoint.
Staying longer in La Garrotxa
If you have more than three days in La Garrotxa, there is so much you can do in the area, most of which is nature-based. There are many hiking and cycle routes criss-crossing the natural park, many of which are multi-day routes. Itinerannia has created an incredible network of routes in the area, along with maps and a downloadable app. The Olot Tourism Office has just created a new 10-day walking loop, complete with a passport you can get stamped at accommodation and restaurants along the way. Pop into the tourism office to find out more.
Sustainable tourism initiatives
As I’ve mentioned above, the La Garrotxa region is strongly committed to sustainable tourism, and this can be seen in everything they offer – from the nature-based activities and accessible public transport, to local-focused gastronomy and hospitality. Many businesses in the area are members of the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism, with a goal to protect the landscape, biodiversity and cultural heritage of the area for both locals and visitors.
Gastronomy is an important part of the Garrotxa identity, with a unique Cuina Volcànica (Volcanic Cuisine) that uses almost entirely local produce and traditional techniques that are passed down through the generations. Many restaurants are family-owned, such as Hostal del Sol and Restaurant La Deu, both offering traditional dishes in beautiful settings.
Want more information? Visit the official tourism page here.
Soy Ecoturista
Soy Ecoturista is a responsible, sustainable ecotourism association that helps you to discover, plan and book experiences, accommodation and activities in nature in Spain. With a strong focus on exploring and celebrating the outdoors, they are the perfect place to start researching your next adventure in Spain’s natural areas. With an accreditation system in place to ensure each partner business and organisation is just as committed to protecting the local ecosystem, it’s easy to ensure you are participating in ethical and responsible activities during your trip.
Check out their website here to find out more about Spain’s incredible natural areas.
Where to Stay in La Garrotxa
If you want your visit to La Garrotxa to be as sustainable as possible, considering staying at accommodation that is accredited by the European Charter. There are also plenty of local-owned and run farmstays and rural hotels that really immerse you in the beautiful countryside without impacting heavily on it. While I typically stay in lower-budget hostels, during this visit to La Garrotxa I was lucky to stay in some really beautiful accommodation.
- For a really authentic rural experience, stay at the family-run Casa Rural Mas Garganta, a gorgeous country home complete with friendly farm animals, meals made with produce straight from the garden, and views to die for.
- For a spot of country luxury steeped in history, try Hotel Mas la Ferreria, a short drive outside the city. The small boutique hotel is situated in a beautifully renovated 14th-century farmhouse next to an old parish church.
While there aren’t any typical backpacker hostels in Olot (yet!), there are some budget accommodations available. Check them out here.
Practical information:
- Getting there: Girona Airport is just 65km away from Olot, and Barcelona is less than two hours by car. There are several bus routes that can take you there from the cities or the coast.
- Language: La Garrotxa is in Catalonia, which means that Catalan, not Spanish, is the main language here. However, you will see both languages almost everywhere. Many people working in the hospitality industry will speak some English, but it’s always handy to have a few local phrases on hand.
- Currency: like the rest of Spain, euros are used here. You can use your card to pay pretty much everywhere, but cash is easy to come by if you want to use it.
- Best time to visit: October to December is the high season here, due to the changing colours of the beech forests, an unusual phenomenon in Spain’s drier climate that attracts many local and foreign visitors. It can get relatively cold in winter, with skiing opportunities in the Pyrenees to the north, while summer offers a lovely break from the scorching heat of the coast and the cities.
- Staying connected: If you’re from an EU country, your phone and data plan will work here just as it does at home. However, if you’re coming from further abroad, you may want to get a local SIM card for your stay. This is especially important if you’re going to be doing a lot of hiking in rural areas, for safety reasons. If you want to be connected from the moment you hit the ground, an eSIM is the best way to go. I’ve used Airalo in several countries now and have always had a good experience.
Had you heard of La Garrotxa before? Would you want to visit and see the volcanos? Tell me in the comments below!
Heading to southern Spain and want another nature-filled adventure? Why not go searching for Iberian lynx in Sierra Morena!
Like this post? Pin it for later!
