Cambodia had been an almost-mythical place to me ever since I watched Lara Croft wander through light-touched and flower-strewn temple ruins there in one of my favourite childhood films. That image was fixed in my mind for so long that when it came time to visit there myself, I genuinely couldn’t believe it was actually happening. Cambodia has so much magic packed into it, magic that very often gets overlooked because of its more boisterous neighbours – Thailand to the west and Vietnam to the south and east. As a smaller country, you don’t need as much time to visit the highlights. Two weeks is the perfect amount of time because you’re not rushing between locations, while still seeing a good chunk of the best places in the country. This Cambodia itinerary is great for first-time visitors to the country as it hits all the right spots.
Disclaimer: this website contains affiliate links. If you click on these links and make a purchase or booking, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps me to continue this blog and help wildlife around the world!
Siem Reap: 3-4 days
If you’re coming from Thailand, Siem Reap is likely to be your first stop on your Cambodia itinerary. And what a first stop it is – the home of Angkor Wat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most famous temples in the world. The iconic skyline seen as the sun rises behind it is an experience not to be missed. However, keep your expectations in check – the weather may not cooperate and it’s impossible to avoid the insane crowds, particularly if you want to get photos of the temple reflected in the pool of water in front. Despite this, Angkor Wat is an incredible place, even if you have a bit of temple fatigue (so common in SE Asia, particularly Thailand!).
I would recommend spending at least three days in Siem Reap, two to explore Angkor Wat (it’s so much bigger than just the main temple), and one to see what the city of Siem Reap has to offer. Take a stroll along the river, visit the neon lights of Pub Street and explore some of the city’s best day and night markets. You can also take a food tour or a cooking class to dive into Cambodia’s delicious cuisine culture.
If you’re anything like me and absolutely love UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then take an extra night in Siem Reap and do a day trip to Preah Vihear and Koh Ker, two sets of temples that are a lot quieter than Angkor Wat. You can even see Cambodia’s only pyramid temple at the latter. Definitely worth the long day of driving. However, you must check if the area around Preah Vihear is currently safe to visit, as the temple’s proximity to the Thai border means its often in a danger zone when conflict between the two countries escalates, as it has currently (November 2025). Preah Vihear is at least three hours from Siem Reap, so most visitors skip it. However, Koh Ker is much closer, so it’s definitely worth adding to your Cambodia itinerary.
Where I stayed: Gecko Hostel. I really liked this hostel, with its comfy beds and really nice swimming pool (which I used every single day because of the heat and exercise!). The staff are amazing, always happy to help organise tours and transport, and the location is great because it’s on a quiet street but still just a short walk to the centre of Siem Reap.
Phnom Penh: 2-3 days
Cambodia’s capital is at the centre of its transport network, so you may end up passing through a few times between locations. Phnom Penh seems to be the kind of place that you either love or hate. I did really like this city, there was just something about it that gave me a really good vibe. Most visitors only spend one day here, but no Cambodia itinerary would be complete without a visit to the capital.
The two main reasons to visit the capital city, whether you’re in the country for two weeks or two days, are both linked to the dark history of Cambodia’s recent past. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center are absolute must-dos in Cambodia. They are heartbreaking and not exactly a fun day out, but it’s so important to understand the place you’re visiting. The atrocities that much of Cambodia’s population lived through must never be forgotten. Since the genocide under Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge happened less than 50 years ago (approximately 2 million people killed in less than four years), many of the survivors still live today. I definitely looked at any elderly people I saw differently after visiting these two places. Give yourself a day to visit these two locations as you really can’t rush through them. You can either book a day tour or else hire a tuk-tuk driver for the day – they will wait at each location for you, so it’s a handy way to get around the city. Elsewhere, you can also visit the Royal Palace and take a sunset cruise along the Mekong.
It felt really strange to take photos at both of these places, let alone share them on the internet, so I only took a few of signs, etc. They are both very sobering places that I just wanted to experience in the moment.
Where I stayed: Onederz Hostel Phnom Penh. The Onederz Hostel chain quickly became my favourite hostels in Cambodia. I stayed in three of them around the country, and loved all of them. They are really well priced, and the one in Phnom Penh is in a great central location. The rooftop pool is so refreshing and the onsite restaurant was so nice when I didn’t have the energy to go out to eat. The common area on the ground floor was also great for getting some work done, with loads of tables.
Kampot: 2 days
After a sobering visit to Phnom Penh, it’s time to get back into nature, with a trip to the coast. First, head to Kampot, a lovely laid-back city perfect for a slow wander through its quiet streets. The buildings, though a little dishevelled, are a mix of French colonial and Chinese-style architecture, adding a charming vibe to the city. The riverside promenade is great for a sunset stroll, while the river itself offers boat cruises and firefly tours. You can also get out into the countryside to visit local pepper farms, or visit the sleepy beachside village of Kep.
The absolute best thing to do in Kampot is the Green Cathedral. This is one of the coolest things I did in South East Asia, and one of the reasons it was so cool is because for 95% of my time there I was completely alone. You can do a guided kayaking tour to the Green Cathedral, but it’s also possible to simply hop in a tuk-tuk and be driven to one of the many river lodges that offer kayak rentals. The Green Cathedral is a narrow loop off the main river, with tall trees and reeds creating something of a natural roof overhead. You can do the loop in 1-2 hours, passing beneath bridges and rowing past half-built guesthouses. There are even a couple of places you can pull in and get a drink. It’s a gorgeous way to pass half a day outside the main city. I got my kayak from Champa Lodge for the equivalent of just a few dollars. Definitely a worthy addition to your Cambodia itinerary.
There are loads of food options within Kampot as well, particularly if you’re craving a break from Asian cuisine. There are plenty of western restaurants, so it’s easy to find a cheap pizza or veggie burger.
Where I stayed: Onederz Hostel Kampot. Wow, is this a lovely hostel! I did not want to leave. Between the bright rooms, really nice pool and beautifully decorated common area, this was such a haven. It seems quite a social hostel too, so easy to meet other travellers. Definitely my favourite hostel in Cambodia.
Koh Rong Sanloem: 3 days
Cambodia may not have the number or quality of islands as Thailand, but Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem are two beautiful isles off the coast that are becoming increasingly popular with visitors. If you’re looking for a break from cities and temples, you have to add at least one of these islands to your Cambodia itinerary. Of the two, I chose to visit Koh Rong Sanloem because it has a quieter vibe, with less of a party atmosphere than neighbouring Koh Rong. You can get the ferry to both islands from the terminal in Preah Sihanouk. I would go straight there from Kampot instead of spending any time in Preah Sihanouk (a.k.a. Sihanoukville). While the city was intended to be a beachside tourist haven, I have heard many bad things about it, including constant construction, poor facilities and dodgy casinos on every corner.
Koh Rong Sanloem is a beautiful paradise island, perfect for days spent doing very little, if anything at all. During my two weeks in Cambodia, I spent my days on Koh Rong Sanloem reading my book overlooking the ocean, and it was perfect. The main “road” is the beach, with visitors jumping from the pier straight onto the sand (or into thigh-deep water depending on the tide, so be prepared for that). My ride from the ferry “terminal” to my hostel was on a tractor-trailer that spent half the journey driving in the water!
If you do want to be a little active during your stay here, then I definitely recommend the trail across the island to Sunset Beach. Half the walk is on a dirt road, the second half up a steep, half-constructed track then down a narrow jungle path (that had the biggest mosquitos I’ve seen in my life!). I was questioning my decision to do this along the way, but when I stepped out onto the sand and saw the pure paradise in front of me, I regretted waiting so long to go there. I went for sunset, but wish I had spent an entire day there. The clean, warm water is so inviting and is much calmer on this side of the island than on the main strip. You can also go on a boat trip around the island that stops by this beach.
The whole island is just very peaceful, and a nice change of pace from the hectic city and crowded temples on the mainland.
Where I stayed: Onederz Hostel Koh Rong Sanloem. Another Onederz hostel that felt like the right choice. Like every other accommodation on the island, the hostel is located right on the beach, with a huge common area perfect for lounging, with couches, hammocks and swing chairs. The rooms were a bit smaller here than other Onederz hostel, and be prepared for sand everywhere, but hey, you’re on a tropical island, what do you expect?
Kratie: 2 days
There are two main reasons people add Kratie to their Cambodia itinerary. The first is that they’re passing through on their way to Don Det in southern Laos. The second is dolphins. I’ll give you one guess why I was there.
The Irrawaddy dolphin is an endangered species of dolphin found in South East Asia. In Cambodia, there are only around 100 of them left, found exclusively in the part of the Mekong river between Kratie and the Lao border. Visitors to Kratie can take a kayak day tour to find them. This is the most ethical and sustainable way to view the elusive dolphins, as the noise from boats can disturb them. Thankfully, overcrowding by tourists hasn’t become an issue here yet.
When you go on a kayaking tour, you’ll first be driven quite a way to the north of the city, so that you are rowing with the current downstream back to Kratie. Even so, it’s better to have a little bit of experience before doing this, because the Mekong can be fast-flowing (and you first cross almost the entire width of it!). It’s such a fun way to spend the day, and when you reach the wide area where the dolphins are found, it’s amazing to sit in the silence and wait for them to surface.
If dolphins aren’t really your thing (but how could they not be?) and you’re not planning to head overland to Laos, then Kratie can be left out of your Cambodia itinerary. From the coast, you will need to pass through Phnom Penh again to get to Kratie, or if you’re heading onwards to Vietnam and Ho Chi Minh City.
Where I stayed: Silver Dolphin Guesthouse. Because Kratie isn’t hugely popular for backpackers, there aren’t any real hostels in town. However, if you’re looking for budget accommodation, Silver Dolphin Guesthouse does offer a dorm room for a very cheap price (just €3!). However, the price is reflected in the property as it is very basic, though it does have nice river views. Otherwise, there are other higher-end accommodations available in Kratie, including homestays and hotels.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION AS OF NOVEMBER 2025
Tensions between Thailand and Cambodia have escalated in the border areas in mid- and late-2025, including skirmishes at border crossings. As such, until a steady peace has been achieved, it is highly advised not to try and cross the border overland between these two countries, especially at the most popular crossing on the route between Bangkok and Siem Reap. In fact, many travel and tour companies are not moving in these areas at all right now. However, the rest of the country is still perfectly safe, and flights are operating as normal. So, if you’re planning to travel to Cambodia from Thailand, I would recommend flying from Bangkok or Phuket to Siem Reap or Phnom Penh.
The area around Preah Vihear is also considered a no-travel zone, so until things settle, it may not be possible – or safe – to visit the temple ruins there.
Want a longer Cambodia itinerary?
If you have longer than two weeks to spend, then you could add Battambang to your Cambodia itinerary. This city isn’t too far from Siem Reap, so you could spend a few days here after visiting the temples at Angkor Wat. It’s the second-largest city in Cambodia, but still relatively unknown by tourists, so you won’t find the same crowds here as in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. Kayak down the river, ride the innovative Bamboo Train, visit the Killing Cave (as bleak as it sounds) and cycle past endless rice fields.
You can also get even more off the beaten track by going jungle trekking in Koh Kong or visit an ethical elephant sanctuary in Mondulkiri (remember – no touching, no feeding and no bathing! Otherwise it’s not actually ethical). You could even spend an extra day in Phnom Penh and take a cycle tour to Silk Island.
Practical Information:
- Language: Khmer is the official language of Cambodia, but I had no issues with finding English-speaking people there, as everyone involved in the tourism industry in the well-trodden areas of the country speaks it really well. However, the more off-beaten you go, the less likely that is. It’s still nice to have a few phrases of Khmer, though, as it’s definitely appreciated by locals. Try “Au kun” for thank you, “Chom reap sour” (formal) or “Susadei” (informal) for hello, and “bah” (male)/”jah” (female) for yes.
- Currency: the Cambodian real is the official currency, but a lot of tourist locations do accept US dollars, so it can be handy to have some, especially smaller bills (just make sure they are pristine or they won’t be accepted!). ATMs are easy to find in all the places I visited, and it’s best to use cash rather than card.
- Visas: you will need to get an eVisa for your trip to Cambodia, but it’s a really simple process now. Doing it online before you arrive is quick and easy on the official website. The Visa T is just US$30 and gives you up to a month in the country.
- Getting there: most long-haul flights to Cambodia will pass through Bangkok, and many visitors combines a visit to Cambodia with a trip to Thailand. As I mentioned above, crossing the land border between these two countries is not advised right now, so it’s best to fly. Overland, if you’re coming from Laos, you’ll be crossing the border at Don Det, and from Vietnam you’ll likely cross from Ho Chi Minh City. Bear in mind that eVisas (for both Laos and Cambodia) may not be accepted at the Don Det crossing, so do your research if you want to go this route. HCMC to Phnom Penh – and vice versa – is a very busy crossing, but I had no issues and the line went pretty quick. It was just a matter of hopping off the bus, walking through the building, and getting back on the bus on the other side.
- Getting around: connections between the places I’ve mentioned in this itinerary are really easy, and every hostel I stayed in was able to organise transport for me to the next destination. However, if you want to book in advance, the best website is 12Go.Asia. No matter where you’re going, you’ll find reliable schedules and fares here. Buses range from comfortable and spacious to squeezed in like sardines minivans. You get what you pay for. Cambodia doesn’t have a train network, just buses. Within the cities, tuk-tuks are the best and most common means of getting around, just remember to agree on a price before getting in, and pay at your destination.
- Staying connected: the rise of eSIMs has meant it’s even easier nowadays to stay online during your travels. I highly recommend Airalo, I’ve used their eSIMs in multiple countries, including Cambodia, and have always been happy with them.
What makes you want to visit Cambodia? Tell me in the comments below!
Like this post? Pin it for later!
[…] Read more: Two Weeks In Cambodia – a first-time itinerary […]