The Iberian lynx (Lynx pardinus) is one of Europe’s most elusive carnivores, with the species coming close to extinction at the start of the 21st century. However, thanks to incredible conservation efforts, today there are more than two thousand of these beautiful cats, though they are still classified as Vulnerable by the IUCN. Lynx used to be found all over the Iberian Peninsula, but in Spain there are just a few hotspots where you might find them. One of the best places to look for Iberian lynx is the Sierra Morena region, particularly in the Sierra de Andújar Natural Park and the area surrounding it.
Not only will you find incredible wildlife sighting opportunities here, but also gorgeous landscapes and authentic Andalucían culture. Spain can be incredibly busy in tourist hotspots, so heading inland towards the mountains is a great way to lose the crowds. Spotting lynx is also a really good reason to visit Spain in winter, as January and February are during their mating season, so the males are more active in their roaming.
And who doesn’t love a bit of Spanish winter sun?
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Two spots to visit to find lynx in Spain:
Within the Sierra de Andújar area, there are two well-known spots where you’ll often find other photographers gathering to wait for lynx. One is along a winding road above a sweeping valley that is the territory of a known female. The other is at a dam, with a bridge in a good spot looking down the river.
La Lancha – see a mother lynx and her cubs
While a lot of the lynx territory here is private property, there is a long road down to the La Lancha dam area (JF-5004) that’s great to visit. Along the part of the road that looks down over the valley there are several viewing stations and information signs for the many photographers that spend their day sitting along this road searching for a glimpse of the lynx. Because you can’t wander through the valley itself, seeing the lynx here does mean it will be from further away, so make sure you bring your binoculars and/or your long lens! I did not bring my long lens, as it was just a short trip with a single carry-on bag, and I definitely regret it.
Many people will camp out along the road for the whole day because Margaza, a well-known, one-eyed female who has claimed the area (and her cubs, depending on the time of year) can appear at any time. Both times I saw them were in the afternoon, but I did talk to some others who saw them in the morning, so how long you decide to spend there is up to you. It’s quite a fun atmosphere along the road, with watchers staking out different spots, so keep an eye on the people as well as the landscape, as often your first sign of lynx in Spain is seeing other people getting excited!
The road is also a handy barrier that prevents people getting too close to wildlife, so enjoy seeing the animals without any human interference. While you’re waiting for lynx, check the skies out too – there are often vultures and other birdlife around, as well as deer and small mammals in the valley below.
The valley is particularly beautiful in the early morning and evening, with soft pastel sunrises and golden light at the end of the day. In winter, the fog in the morning can be intense, but I think it just makes the valley that more magical.
Presa de El Encinarejo – harder to spot, but more up-close
This viewing spot is located at the bottom of another dam, the Presa de El Encinarejo. Here, while the chance of seeing lynx is lower, if you are lucky enough, they will come to the water’s edge and you can see them up close. While I didn’t personally see any lynx the couple of times I waited here, there were plenty of people with me, so it’s another well-known spot.
To get to the dam, enter the Natural Park over the Iron Bridge (Puente de Hierro), then turn right and follow the dirt road along the river until you reach the dam and a second bridge. There are plenty of places to stop along the way, and the many picnic tables are evidence that this is a very popular spot to visit in summer. You can either wait on the bridge, or else a little ways down the river on a large outcropping of rocks.
As I mentioned above, the fog in the mornings can be intense in Sierra de Andújar, particularly by the dam, while in La Lancha you are often high enough to be above the clouds. This may make wildlife-spotting a bit more difficult until the weather clears, but you have to admit it makes for a beautiful scene. It’s also worth checking out the area above the dam, with its “beaches” and quiet waters. You can find lynx tracks here sometimes, so a sighting is possible!
Other wildlife
Lynx aren’t the only wildlife to look for in Sierra Morena, or anywhere in Spain; there are plenty of other cool species inhabiting the area.
Iberian ibex
When you’re on the La Lancha road, it’s worth driving all the way across to the other side of the valley and down to the dam itself. Along the way, you’ll pass an abandoned village that was built for the workers of the dam almost a hundred years ago. There’s a very nice short walk along the near side of the impressive dam. During this walk, I spotted deer on the sheer cliffs opposite, a huge gathering of vultures and, right at the very end of the path, two ibex – a mother and young – making their way down the steep slope very close to us.
Red & fallow deer
Deer are everywhere in this area! I saw both red and fallow deer on multiple occasions. Red deer are one of my favourite mammals, with their quintessential antlers and proud silhouettes. As you’re driving between locations, keep an eye out in the fields and valleys on either side of you, as herds or small groups pop up fairly often.
Otters
If I hadn’t seen any lynx on this trip, I still would have been happy, because otters sightings are the best! I spent two mornings waiting for lynx at the Presa de El Encinarejo dam, and while I didn’t get lucky, both times I watched a Eurasian otter or two spend some time swimming and diving around the river, even coming up onto the banks. What a way to spend a morning (despite the cold!)
Birds
As I mentioned above, the number of vultures I saw in this area was incredible. Both griffon and black vultures fly above, often together, and there are also imperial eagles to be spotted. Smaller, but no less impressive, are the beautifully coloured Iberian magpies, with their stunning blue iridescence, as well as Eurasian hoopoes, cormorants, partridges, choughs and so many more species. If you’re into birdwatching as well as looking for lynx, Sierra de Andújar (and Spain in general) is perfect for you.
Fox & other mammals
The decline of the lynx in Spain and Portugal meant a sharp increase in rabbits – their main prey – which in turn led to an increase in fox numbers, which local farmers did not like, proving that the conservation of apex predators is so important to a healthy ecosystem. However, since the return of the lynx, numbers of other small carnivores have become more balanced. You won’t see foxes everywhere you turn, but it’s not uncommon to spot them by roadsides, particularly in the evenings or at night. Wild boar and wildcats can also be found in the area, though they’re harder to spot. Just remember to keep your distance for your safety and theirs!
Remember: whether you’re looking for lynx in Spain, bears in Canada or elephants in Thailand, respecting wildlife is essential. Never give food to wildlife (or allow them to take it!), always keep a safe distance and never interfere with their natural behaviours. And please call out any shitty human behaviour you see!
Hiking trails
There are several trails within the natural park, with varying lengths and degrees of difficulty. For an easy stroll, park at the entrance of the park (near the Iron Bridge) and follow the river to the dam and back. If you want something a bit more strenuous, there is a circular route that goes up through the park to the impressive Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza in a small town (visible perched on a hill across from La Lancha) and down again. While there is always a chance of spotting lynx and other wildlife while hiking, it’s not particularly likely. However, keep an eye out for tracks and other signs.
If you want to have a local guide accompany you while hiking in Sierra de Andújar Natural Park, you can join this organised hike, though you could need some Spanish as the guides may not speak English when pointing out ecological features and animals.
Practical Information:
- Getting around: if you want to look for lynx, you really do need your own transport. Renting a car in Córdoba is the best way to go. This gives you the freedom to set your own schedule and stay flexible (important when trying to find elusive wildlife). If you fly in to Málaga or Seville, you can get the train to Córdoba really easily. Towns and cities in Spain are really well-connected by public transport.
- Guided tours: if you’re not comfortable renting a car or driving the narrow roads around the area, there is a guided 4×4 tour available that mentions searching for lynx. However, bear in mind these tours won’t give you much flexibility in terms of staying at locations to wait for wildlife, but you could still get lucky.
- Staying warm: Spain may have a reputation as a hot country, but if you go in winter, it will still be cold! Especially in the mornings and evenings, which is also when wildlife are most active. So dress in layers, and don’t forget your gloves! Nothing worse than numb fingers when you’re trying to take photos.
- Food and drink: There are very few options near or in the park, so make sure you bring plenty of snacks and picnic food with you. I definitely recommend stopping in Andújar on your way to stock up, as it’s a 30 minute drive from the park entrance to the town, or longer if you’re at La Lancha.
- Where to stay: How close you stay to the park will impact your days, as you want to start as early as possible. I stayed at an absolutely gorgeous little villa that is often host to photography groups (I was so jealous of all the incredible gear they carried!) called Casa Rural Villa Matilde. The family keeps the place spotless and offers breakfast and dinner for an added fee if you want. During the lynx mating season, they get booked up long in advance, so make sure to organise your stay early! There are also quite a few accommodation options nearer Andújar and around the park.
Heading to the north of Spain and want more nature-based inspiration? Check out La Garrotxa, Catalonia’s volcanic region!
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