Five Weeks in Thailand – a first-time itinerary

Thailand has to be one of the top destinations for backpackers in South East Asia, if not all of Asia. It’s often the first place people visit when setting out on a backpacking journey, and I do think it’s really “beginner-friendly” in terms of travel outside the typical European/North American travel spheres. Compared to many other countries in Asia, it is relatively built-up regarding accommodation, public transport and things to do. However, it’s definitely not somewhere you should visit on a short one- or two-week holiday if you really want to experience the country. There’s just so much to take in – landscapes and temples, waterfalls and beaches, islands and mountains. In fact, I think even a month is too short a time. I spent a little more than that travelling around Thailand and felt like I only just scratched the surface. With this itinerary for spending five weeks in Thailand, you can hit the main spots in both the north and south of this beautiful and fascinating country.

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Your Five-Week Itinerary – Central Thailand

Bangkok: 2-3 nights

Even though I said that Thailand is often a first backpacking experience, it actually took me ten years of world travel to get around to visiting South East Asia. However, it was a really nice, easy transition back into long-term backpacking after a few years of more sporadic travel.

Bangkok is very likely to be your first stop in Thailand. This is one of the biggest cities in the region, so it can be a little overwhelming at first. But, don’t spend too much time here; while it’s a cool city, Thailand has a lot more to offer. It does give a really nice insight into the history of the country, so it’s good for getting your bearings. The three main historical sights are all pretty close to each other: The Grand Palace (get there as early as possible in the morning to avoid insane crowds), Wat Arun across the river and Wat Phra. Other areas of interest are Khao San Road (for partying, so I avoided it), Chinatown and Talat Noi (I loved this cute, riverside neighbourhood that is full of cafes and street art). The city’s public transport system is easy to use, so you can see most of the sights above in just one day. If you want to take the hassle out of visiting the city, you can also book a guided tour with transport. How many nights you stay in Bangkok here will likely depend on when your flight gets in.

Where I stayed: C’House Bangkok. This highly-rated hostel is located really close to public transport and local restaurants, so it’s a good base for exploring Bangkok. It has loads of dorms and private rooms, which are clean and spacious, and the common area has a relaxed vibe. Want something a little more luxurious? Check Booking.com and Expedia for hotel and guesthouse options.

Kanchanaburi – 2 nights

Located just three hours from Bangkok, there are two really cool reasons to visit Kanchanaburi, one natural, one historic. Erawan National Park is one of the most beautiful places in Thailand, and your five-week itinerary wouldn’t be complete without spending an amazing (and very sweaty) day there. Famous for its seven-tiered waterfalls and lush forest, this is a really easy day trip from the city. Buses run throughout the day (check the park website for more details). Guided tours are also available. Bring lots of water, as you’ll lose a lot hiking along the trail past all those incredible waterfalls!

The second cool thing to do is a half-day trip along the Death Railway. Kanchanaburi has quite a dark history, especially during World War II, when Japan invaded. The railway was built between 1940 and 1943 using forced labour of both Allied soldiers and Thai/Burmese civilians, and over 100,000 people died during construction as a result of horrendous living and work conditions. Take the train from Kanchanaburi to the stop at Thamkra Sae, crossing over the railway bridge over the River Kwae on the edge of Kanchanaburi. Thamkra Sae has the most famous part of the railway, with amazing views at odds with the awful story behind it. Walk the tracks (with caution!), have some lunch, wander the market, then get on the return train to Kanchanaburi.

In Kanchanaburi itself, there’s not a huge amount to do, but I highly recommend visiting the Thailand–Burma Railway Centre and the nearby Kanchanaburi War Cemetery to learn more about the history. The city also has a really big night market that’s worth checking out.

Where I stayed: WesTory Hostel. This is a really beautiful boutique hostel (though you wouldn’t know it from the price) that’s about half-way between the bus station and the train station/main sights. The staff were so lovely, the rooms perfect and there are plenty of comfortable seating areas if you need to get some work done (or just chill). If hostels aren’t for you, check Booking.com and Expedia for hotel and guesthouse options.

Khao Yai National Park – 2 nights

I was shocked by how few travellers I spoke to had heard of Thailand’s first national park, let alone planned to visit. Which is insane, because it’s one of the easiest places in the country to see wild Asian elephants (not in a “sanctuary”). How could you not want to add this place to your Thailand itinerary? Just a few hours from Bangkok, Khao Yai is particularly popular with city folk getting out for the weekend, so try to visit during the week if you can.

To get to Khao Yai from Kanchanaburi, you’ll need to transit through Bangkok, but if you time a morning bus from Kanchanaburi with an afternoon bus to Khao Yai, you should be able to avoid having to stay the night in the city.

The best way to see Khao Yai if you don’t have your own transport is with a guided tour. Several of the guesthouses outside the park offer tours to guests, including full days inside the national park. You can also book day trips or multi-day tours from Bangkok that include transport to and around Khao Yai. Having an experienced guide is the best way to see wildlife – mine was able to spot a green snake curled up in a leafy tree while driving! He also brought us on a hike through the jungle to find gibbons (love them!), and knew all the spots to check for elephants in the afternoon.

I will say, seeing the elephants was a bit of a strange experience, because it involved driving around with about a hundred other vehicles looking for movement in the thick bush on the side of the road, and when elephants were spotted in one place, it felt like the entire park was informed. This meant that when we finally did see the elephants, there was a large crowd around us. However, park staff were amazing at making sure everyone kept a safe distance from the elephants, and everyone was so respectful and quiet that it still felt like a wonderful experience. And I’m really picky about my wildlife experiences!

Where I stayed: Greenleaf Guesthouse. It was actually this guesthouse being recommended to me that made me discover Khao Yai in the first place. The rooms are fairly basic, but the staff are wonderful, the onsite restaurant offers delicious food all day and they offer half- and full-day tours of the area at really reasonable prices. Highly recommend. Between the gates of Khao Yai and the town of Pak Chong, there’s a wide range of guesthouses and hotels; check out the options on Booking.com or Expedia.

Note on wildlife tourism in Thailand:

Seeing elephants is one of the biggest attractions for travellers in Thailand. Unfortunately, this means that the demand for elephant interactions is absolutely huge, leading to a mass market of tours to “sanctuaries”. One of the most important things to remember is that the word “sanctuary” doesn’t automatically mean an ethical experience. I generally avoid any activity that involves captive animals, even if it appears that the animals are in good health and are well taken care of. You just don’t know what goes on behind the scenes. It’s one of the main reasons I try to only see animals in the wild, where they belong. But if you absolutely have to visit a sanctuary, please do your research beforehand. A good rule of thumb to follow is that if there is any physical contact allowed between visitors and the animals – in this case selfies, feeding or bathing elephants – then it is not an ethical experience. Riding elephants is particularly horrible and damaging to the animals. To put it harshly: don’t be selfish, your need for a cool photo for Instagram is not more important than an animal’s safety and well-being. And while respecting culture is important when you’re travelling, culture is not more important than ethics. Do not encourage or support this industry, I beg you.

If you want more information on how to spot ethical wildlife experiences, you can download my free Wildlife-Friendly Tourism Guide.

Ayutthaya – 2 nights

I’ve made no secret of the fact that I’m obsessed with UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Thailand currently has 8 sites listed, and this five-week itinerary visits 3 of them. Khao Yai National Park is one, and the city of Ayutthaya is another. This is a popular day trip from Bangkok, but I think it’s worth staying a couple of nights and really exploring. A fascinating mix of modern town and ancient ruins, Ayutthaya is a really unique destination. People going about their daily lives while walking past overgrown temples, cafes overlooking pagodas, the ruins of the capital city of the Ayutthaya Kingdom (1351-1767) are really incorporated into the urban landscape.

Wat Mahathat is the most popular and easily-accessible temple in Ayutthaya, with its famous Buddha head enmeshed in the roots of a bodhi tree, but there are plenty more temples that are also worth a visit. Don’t miss Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Wat Chaiwatthanaram. The last one can be visited on a boat tour, which will pass by several other temples along the way (a really nice thing to do in the afternoon, as you’ll see the sunset over the temples and river). Cycling is also a popular way to see the city without all the walking.

Where I stayed: Early Bird Hostel. I really liked this hostel. Beds were comfy, the hostel has a pretty outdoor area, it’s close to the temples, the staff offer help with tours and transfers and it has breakfast included. Looking for private rooms? Check your accommodation options here.

Your Five-Week Itinerary – Northern Thailand

Sukhothai – 1-2 nights

Sukhothai is often overlooked in a Thailand itinerary because it’s quite similar to Ayutthaya (and temple fatigue is real). But I almost liked it better than Ayutthaya, so it’s really worth adding to your trip. You could spend days here wandering the massive complex of ruins, which is divided into multiple sections, but if you want to see the main sights here, you can do so in a day (or two half-days, like I did). I walked everywhere, but I definitely recommend getting a bike, it’ll make your day so much easier. It’s likely you’ll arrive here in the late afternoon, but you’ll still have time to go into the park for sunset. The best spot to watch the sun set is on the eastern side of Wat Mahathat, the main temple. If you’re lucky, the pools of water will be full and clear, giving you a beautiful reflection. The next day, start early, grab your bike (either rent one or get a guided cycling tour, great for learning even more) and hit the rest of the temples before your bus north in the afternoon. Don’t miss Wat Sa Si and its cute bridge, the more unique Wat Si Sawai, and Wat Traphang Ngoen and Wat Sorasak in the Central Area, before heading north to Wat Phra Phai Luang and Wat Si Chum, with its really cool and photogenic Buddha statue.

The last bus north is at 4.30pm, so make sure you get your luggage and head to the bus station in plenty of time. Or stay a second night if you don’t want to rush.

Where I stayed: Old City Boutique House. There are two areas of Sukhothai town – the old part near the Historical Park and the new part about ten minutes away by the bus station. Because of my limited time in the area, I decided to stay in the old part, at a really affordable guesthouse just a few minutes walk from the temples, and get a tuktuk to and from the bus station. If you want to stay in the new part, there is one hostel – Rueang Sri SiRi Guest House. It has basic rooms, but is right next to the bus station, so really handy for that. Booking.com and Expedia both have a lot of private accommodation options too.

Chiang Mai – 2 nights

If you leave Sukhothai in the afternoon, it’ll be quite late (around 10pm-12am) by the time you arrive in Chiang Mai, so make sure your accommodation knows you’re coming! Though the hostel I booked said they had a 24-hour reception, there was no one there when I arrived. I nervously waited for a while until someone staying there (or working there? I genuinely wasn’t sure) came by and said to use one of the empty beds in the closest dorm room. Not ideal, but it worked out.

Chiang Mai is a big city, so it’s no surprise there is a thriving digital nomad community there. Personally, I didn’t love it enough to envisage staying there on a long-term basis, but there are definitely some cool places to check out in the city, all of which can be found within the walls of the Old City. Since you’ve spent the last few days seeing temple ruins, it’ll make a nice change of pace to visit some that are still in use. Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan, Wat Chedi Luang Varaviharn and Wat Chiang Man are all beautiful and photogenic, with orange-robed monks going about their daily business.

A lot of the most popular things to do in Chiang Mai are actually outside the city itself, like taking a boat trip on the Mae Ping River, exploring Doi Inthanon National Park or visiting Doi Suthep, a golden temple on a nearby mountaintop with a cool staircase. You can easily find drivers or public transport to take you to these places, or else book a guided tour. Chiang Mai also offers other activities like cooking classes with market or farm visits.

Where I stayed: TarTar&Nay Hostel. Being forgotten about aside, this hostel was lovely, close to the Night Bazaar, with a shared kitchen, accommodating staff and plenty of amenities. Chiang Mai has an enormous range of hostels available, so you certainly won’t have difficulty finding somewhere to stay.

Pai – 2-3 nights

This is one place that is always mentioned in a Thailand itinerary. But, I’ll admit, I did not make the most of my time in Pai. This was the first place I visited that I really regretted not being able to ride a scooter/motorcycle, because I felt really limited in what I could do and where I could go. If you’re comfortable on a scooter, then this is an incredible place you’ll probably want to stay longer in.

While the town itself can feel a bit overrun with foreigners (again, there’s a vibrant digital nomad community here), it’s a great place to explore and get out into nature. Because I wasn’t renting a scooter, I booked a guided tour around the main sights in the area, including a waterfall, Wat Phra That Mae Yen (amazing views over the countryside), the Yun Lai Viewpoint and Santichon Village (a traditional Chinese village that’s beautiful but doesn’t feel authentic), before finishing at Pai Canyon for sunset. My favourite place was the Bamboo Bridge, which is perfectly Instagram-worthy.

You will find lots of tour options for Pai, including sunrise, sunset and adventure tours.

In Pai itself, there are loads of great food options, as well as a long night market that takes over Pai Walking Street every evening. Here you will find food, clothing, souvenirs and so much more. Pai is also a popular spot for learning Muay Thai.

Where I stayed: Misfits Hostel. Located right on the edge of town on the main thoroughfare, this hostel is one of the cheapest and most highly-rated in Pai. Its open-air layout makes you feel part of the nature, and its has a bar and a pool table for easy socialising. Private accommodation is also easy to find, you can find options here.

Note: the road to Pai is very, very winding. Think nearly two hours of constant swaying and braking. If you’re like me and have a sensitive stomach, be prepared.

Chiang Rai – 2 nights

Getting from Pai to Chiang Rai means going almost all the way back to Chiang Mai, but before you reach the city, you will probably transfer to a different bus heading further north. Like Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai doesn’t have a huge amount to do in the city. Most visitors come for the White Temple – Wat Rong Khun – located a bit of a drive south of the city centre. Though it’s as ornate as any of the other temples you’ll have seen so far, the White Temple has a few surprises up its sleeve. Not only is it a beautiful, glowing white colour, it’s also surrounded by surreal, modern statues, some of which look like something out of a horror movie (think lots of gaunt, outstretched hands). Others are literally out of a movie, with many famous characters like Gollum and Iron Man hanging from trees. The temple is a lot younger than you’d think, the passion project of artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, who opened the temple in 1997.

The other famous temple in Chiang Rai is the Blue Temple – Wat Rong Suea Ten – also a bit outside the city centre. This temple’s deep blue colouring is impressive, especially contrasted with the bright golden ornamentation. Also a young temple – completed in 2016 – it’s worth a quick visit. In the centre of Chiang Rai, there’s not much to do, but try to visit the Clock Tower in the evening, when it lights up in a colourful show at 7pm, 8pm and 9pm.

If you don’t want to navigate the temples by yourself, there are plenty of guided tour options. Because Chiang Rai is so far north, it’s also possible to visit the Golden Triangle – where Thailand, Myanmar and Laos meet – as a day trip combined with the temples.

If you’re not particularly interested in visiting the White Temple, then Chiang Rai is easily skipped during this five-week Thailand itinerary.

Where I stayed: BED Friends Poshtel. I really liked this hostel – it lived up to its posh name – but it has since closed. Don’t worry, there are still plenty of other hostel options in the city, as well as hotels and guesthouses.

Your Five-Week Itinerary – Southern Thailand

Now that you’ve seen from Bangkok to the north of Thailand, it’s time to head south. From Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai, you have two options – a long, overnight bus back to Bangkok, or a slightly more expensive (but not by much) two-hour flight. I chose the latter, which is how I know I’ve started to mature in my travels (twenty-something me would definitely have chosen the bus to save €20). Depending on the time of your arrival, you can either spend another night in the capital city, or jump straight on another bus south.

Hua Hin – 2 nights

I don’t recommend spending any time at all in the town of Hua Hin itself, except as somewhere to sleep and eat. The beach is nothing amazing (you’ll certainly see plenty of better ones after this!) and the town has little to offer except for a pretty decent night market. So why are we here at all? Because it’s the easiest place to see Phraya Nakhon Cave from, if you don’t have your own transport. This is a day trip that should be on everyone’s Thailand itinerary, but I didn’t meet many people who went here, which is such a shame, because it’s awesome. Booking a guided day trip from Hua Hin to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park is easy, but, like in Pai, I really wish I could have just rented a scooter and gone off by myself for the day, because there were some spots in the park I really wanted to see, but a tour didn’t go to them. Maybe one day I’ll have the courage to try to drive a scooter in Asia!

It’s a long, tiring day, but so worth it. The drive from Hua Hin takes you to a small beach inside the park, from where you’ll get into a traditional Thai boat to go around the headland to the next bay. You’ll be wading through the waves to get in the boat, which can be quite rough, so take care of that phone and camera! If you’re DIY-ing the trip, you can skip the boat and hike around an hour instead, but it’s always nice to get out on the water. From the next beach, it’s a steep climb up rough steps hewn into the cliff side for about half an hour until you reach the mouth of Phraya Nakhon Cave. Beware of monkeys (remember, keep your distance from wildlife!) along the way. Inside the cave, you’ll find impressive geological features, natural skylights and the incredible pavilion inside, illuminated at the right time of day by a beam of sunlight. Absolutely incredible.

Where I stayed: HuaHun Night Market Hostel. Because Hua Hin isn’t typically on the backpacker route, there’s not as much to choose from in terms of hostels. Though it’s not the highest-rated hostel, this one is the cheapest, has a great location literally in the middle of the night market and the owners are really nice. It’s basic, but does the job. The owners live there and use most of the common areas for storage, so if you want a social experience, I would recommend checking out some of the other options in the area.

Koh Tao – 2-7 nights

From Hua Hin, you can take a bus south to the city of Chumphon, where a ferry will take you across to three of Thailand’s most famous islands – Koh Tao, Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. Each island offers something different depending on what you’re looking for. Koh Tao is the smallest of the three, so is the easiest to get around. Koh Phangan is famous for its Full Moon Parties (no thank you, I would avoid this like the plague even if I was a party person, the environmental destruction alone is awful so I will not be recommending that for any Thailand itinerary!), while Koh Samui is the largest. If you only have time to visit one of them, I would go with Koh Tao.

The amount of time you spend on Koh Tao will depend on one major factor – if you’re getting any diving certifications. This is one of the cheapest and most popular places in the world to learn to dive, with hundreds of people getting their Open Water cert every week. I spent a week on the island to get my cert and I did really enjoy my time there. Most dive centres offer accommodation with their courses, but I’ve heard the quality can be hit or miss, so do your research.

Many people learn to drive a scooter on Koh Tao, but with its busy streets and winding mountain roads, I wouldn’t recommend doing it here unless you’re already a confident driver. I swear half the people I passed on the island had bandages somewhere on their body from a scooter accident.

Apart from diving, some of the best places to visit on the island are Nang Yuan Island (absolutely divine, a perfect half-day trip), Sairee Beach, Ao Luek Bay and at least one overlook (I went to the one marked Ozone View Point on Google Maps and spent a lovely afternoon looking out over the island). Many of the best marine spots are only reachable by boat, so if you’re not doing a diving certificate, definitely book a boat tour around the island.

Where I stayed: De Coco Hostel and Taco Shack Hostel. I stayed in both main areas of the island – Mae Head, where the ferries depart from, and Sairee Beach, about a 20-minute walk further up the island. De Coco is small, but very pretty, while Taco Shack is well-known as a diving hostel (stay for free when you dive with them). There is a crazy amount of hostels on Koh Tao, for such a small island!

Khao Sok National Park – 2 nights

Sleeping in a floating bamboo cabin on a remote lake with no sounds but the lapping water and bird song was one of the best things I did during my five weeks in Thailand and I highly recommend you add it to your itinerary. This National Park is huge, but the biggest draws are the overnight trips into the depths of Cheow Lan Lake to stay in a floating bungalow. With no phone service, this is a wonderful break from the outside world.

There is a small built-up area with hotels, hostels and restaurants outside the park, where most people stay at least one night before venturing in. I suggest booking your overnight trip through your accommodation. The trips include transport by bus to the Rajjaprabha Dam, where dozens of boats wait to take tour groups to the bungalows. You can also take a day trip into the park. The boat trip takes a couple of hours, and along the way, you’ll pass through narrow limestone gorges that look out of this world. Once you reach the bungalows, you’ll have time to swim or kayak or relax, before some afternoon activities, like exploring caves or waterfall jungle hikes.

The level of luxury (or lack thereof) you’ll experience on these tours varies wildly depending on your budget. I slept on a thin mattress on the floor of a worn-down bamboo bungalow shared with a stranger, but there are far more high-end accommodations available if that’s what you’re looking for. The evening was spent playing card games and star-gazing, then in the morning the boats took us out to look for elephants and other wildlife (we didn’t exactly see elephants, but they were so close we could hear them chewing in the thick jungle on the shores of the lake).

Where I stayed: Khaosok Inn Hostel. Though it’s a bit of a walk into the main town area with restaurants, I quite liked this comfy and clean hostel. The rooms were big, with plenty of space for everyone, and the bathrooms were spotless. The lady at reception was also so lovely and kind! You can’t take your main luggage on the overnight trip, but they let you store yours for free here. There are also loads of upmarket jungle resorts if you want to treat yourself.

Krabi – 2 nights

When you head south in Thailand, many people have to choose between Krabi and Phuket due to time constraints. I initially chose Krabi because Phuket has a bit more of a party reputation (but I still ended up going there due to a handy flight). And most people who choose Krabi use it only as a launching point for island-hopping tours or ferries to islands in the gulf. There are so many islands in this part of Thailand that you’d need a lot more than just five weeks to visit them all. However, this was yet another time that I felt really limited by my lack of scooter driving skills, because most of the islands don’t have public transport, so I would have been stuck getting drivers everywhere. So instead, I based myself in Krabi town and booked an island-hopping tour.

The more tours I do, the more I crave the freedom of travelling by myself, but sometimes they are simply unavoidable. The two main island-hopping tours from Krabi are the 4-Islands Tour and the 7-Islands Tour. You might naturally think the 7-Islands Tour is better, but there are a couple of things to consider. First, the weather. I was advised to do the (only slightly) shorter 4-Islands Tour because of an incoming storm. Secondly, visiting more locations means less time at each one. Instead of racing between spots, I was happy I had time to swim, snorkel and lounge at the four islands we visited, even if one in particular was so crowded I could barely find a place in the sand to sit! The scenery around Krabi is just breathtaking though, and a necessary addition to your Thailand itinerary.

The town of Krabi is often skipped by visitors, but if you find yourself staying there, make sure to check out the Night Market, go for a walk along the river and see the mud crab statues and visit Wat Kaew Korawaram if you’re not completely sick of temples at this point.

Where I stayed: Leisure Hostel. I liked this large hostel a lot. Just a few minutes walk from the centre of town, it was handy to get to and the rooms were really spacious and clean and the staff were so helpful for advising on and booking tours and transfers. You can also check Booking.com or Expedia if you want private hotel or guesthouse rooms.

Koh Phi Phi – 2 nights

I originally planned to go nowhere near Koh Phi Phi, as it has quite the reputation as a party island. However, seeing the images of the absolutely beautiful scenery there, I just couldn’t miss out. And while yes, it’s a crazy party island, it is possible to keep your distance if you choose the right accommodation. The main beach is lined with hostels and bars, with loud, bass music playing all the time (not great if you just want to enjoy the sunset), but that’s just a good reason to get out and see the rest of the island. The town is a labyrinth of narrow streets, filled with restaurants and souvenir stands, but get away from the built-up area and you’ll find paradise.

The best thing to do is get out on a boat tour. Koh Phi Phi is actually a small archipelago and only the main island (Koh Phi Phi Don) is inhabited. The main attraction is Maya Bay on Koh Phi Phi Le, the second-largest island, which was made famous by the film The Beach. Over the years, the mass tourism at the site led to high environmental damage, including the death of 92% of the bay’s coral, so the Thai government decided to close the bay to all visitors between 2018 and 2022 to allow it to recover. Now, there are strict rules about how many visitors can be there at one time, you cannot swim in the water (watch out for cute baby sharks in the shallows!) and no boats are allowed into the bay at all. From now on, the bay will be closed between August and October every year to ensure the area has a chance to recover from the impact of visitors and boats. I love to see a government actually taking care of its country. I highly recommend booking a sunrise tour to visit Maya Bay (or hire a private boat) so you can get there as early as possible to see it at its most peaceful. These boat tours will also visit beautiful places like Pileh Lagoon, Viking Cave and Loh Samah Bay.

My only issue with these tours is that they often visit Monkey Bay, where a group of macaques live on the beach. This would be a cool experience, except that guides encourage you to approach the monkeys, give them food and pose for photos. Monkeys regularly bite visitors, and overall it’s just a really unethical experience. Wildlife should never be given food or touched, it only encourages bad, unnatural behaviours and puts both the animals and humans in danger. I didn’t know this was part of the tour, I hated every second of it, so I never left the back of the boat (and I wasn’t the only one). I really wish I’d had the courage to speak up about it.

Where I stayed: Magic Hostel. The best thing about this tiny hostel is that it was far from the beach crowds. It doesn’t have a good rating, but the island was almost booked solid except for the party hostels, so I didn’t have much of a choice. However, the staff were nice, the bed was comfy, there were lockers and it was clean. However, the door to the dorm room went straight out onto the street (a quiet one, at least), so some people may have an issue with security. Because of the popularity of Koh Phi Phi, there are many hostels to choose from (if it’s not a particularly busy time of year). It might be better to plan in advance for your stay here.

Phuket – 1-2 nights

Sometimes when I’m travelling I feel pressured to constantly be doing something, to not be wasting time. But I’ve come to learn that if I don’t listen to how my body is doing – both physically and mentally – then I can easily burn out. So if I need a break, to take it easy for a couple days, to skip some sights, then that’s okay. Coming up on nearly six weeks of fairly hectic travel (because yes, this is a hectic itinerary!), by the time I reached Phuket, I was just tired. I was also excited for my next country – Cambodia! So it was with zero guilt that I decided to visit only a single location on Thailand’s biggest island: its Old Town. Admittedly, I was also craving a bit of a break from all the beaches.

Phuket’s Old Town is a really nice change from the busy islands. It’s a small area, easily walked in an hour or two, but there are plenty of nice cafes to chill in too. The beautiful colonial buildings burst with colour, completely picturesque. One of the best mornings I had was getting up early to photograph the streets without any traffic or crowds. I suggest you do the same. The night market here is also worth a wander, but it’s one of the busiest I found in Thailand, so the crowds had me feeling quite overwhelmed.

Outside the Old Town, there are so many destinations to explore, as well as plenty of guided tours if you don’t have your own transport. Some of the most popular places include the island’s Big Buddha (included in a lot of Old Town guided tours), island-hopping in Phang Nga Bay and Kata Noi Beach with the Karon Viewpoint.

Because Phuket is such a popular destination, its airport has good connections around Thailand, as well as Cambodia. If you’re heading there after your five weeks in Thailand, then there’s a really handy direct flight to Siem Reap, meaning you won’t have to transit back through Bangkok.

Where I stayed: Marco Polo Phuket Poshtel. A boutique hostel at non-boutique prices, I really enjoyed my stay here. Just a short walk to the night market and the colourful streets, it has a lovely common area and spacious, comfy rooms. There are also plenty of hotel and guesthouse options in the Old Town.

Practical Information

General Thailand Information

• Currency: the currency in Thailand is the Thai baht (THB). As of September 2025, conversion rates were: €1 = 38 baht / $1 = 32 baht / £1 = 43 baht
• Language: Because Thailand is so heavily visited by western travellers, almost all hospitality staff will speak English, unless you go more off the beaten track. Don’t expect everyone in local restaurants to speak English, however. It’s useful (and respectful) to learn a couple of phrases in Thai, like “Sawadee khrup/ka (male/female)” – “Hello” / “Chai khrup/ka” – “Yes” / “Mai khrup/ka” – “No” / “Khop khun” – “Thank you”.
• Weather: Thailand’s rainy season is generally May-October, although climate change has certainly started messing with this. Expect lots of rain and potential monsoons at this time of year. Many hostels/hotels, particularly in the southern gulf area, close during this time. In the south, the rainy season can continue until December. From then until February is seen as the best time for beach trips, March to April gets really hot and humid, while in September the north’s waterfalls are at their best.
• Food safety: don’t drink tap water in Thailand. However, this doesn’t mean you need to constantly buy single-use bottles of water in the nearest 7-11. Almost every single hostel I stayed in had free water coolers, so with a reusable water bottle, I think I bought maybe five bottles of water in the entire five weeks I spent in Thailand. Street food is also notorious for giving food poisoning, particularly the meat. A good rule of thumb is not to eat anything that hasn’t been prepared specifically for you – you just don’t know how long something has been sitting out for.
• Travel Insurance: I don’t leave home without making sure I have good insurance, even though I’ve been lucky enough to never need it. Particularly if you’re planning on renting scooters and driving around – not all insurance will cover that, so make sure you check beforehand. For long-term travel with an uncertain end date, SafetyWing is a monthly subscription specifically for backpackers, so you can stop and start it whenever you need.
• Staying connected: Getting a SIM card in Thailand is easy, but if you want to be connected from the moment you land, then buying an eSIM in advance is the simplest way to do this. It’s also more environmentally friendly! I’ve used Airalo in multiple countries and have always been happy with them.

Getting around Thailand

Thailand is so well-connected by public transport, it’s easy to get around. Most accommodation will help you book buses to your next destination, and often include a free pick-up from the hostel to the bus station. However, if you want to book in advance to make sure you get the bus you want (particularly at busy times of the year), then 12Go is the best choice for getting tickets. You’ll have your tickets and receipt emailed to you, so there’s no chance of losing them! Most journeys between locations are a few hours long, but especially in the north, you may need to get an overnight bus or two. These tend to be quite comfortable, though not luxurious, but you certainly won’t be the only backpacker on them!

Within towns and cities, public transport is a bit different. I’m a big advocate for walking or taking buses as much as possible, but sometimes the best thing to do is take a Grab car or bike, Asia’s version of Uber, so download the app onto your phone. They are so cheap it’ll hardly eat into your budget. Just make sure you wear a helmet if taking a motorbike! Grab is safe to use – I never once had a problem, just stay aware of your surroundings and have cash ready to hand over instead of fiddling around with your bag. I did hear of local motorcyclist taxis grabbing purses and driving off, but with Grab, the drivers are licensed and reviewed. Remember to check the license plate to make sure you’ve got the right driver!

Temple etiquette

There’s nothing worse than tourists acting inappropriately in sacred places. Sometimes it’s deliberate, sometimes it’s just ignorance. Either way, it’s easy to avoid with the simplest of research. Temples are important to locals, and should be treated with respect.

• Dress correctly – shoulders, knees and cleavage covered. I always keep a sarong, long skirt or wide scarf in my bag when exploring. Yes, it’s hot and covering up isn’t fun when you’re sweating buckets, but loose, light clothing will help with that.
• Don’t treat monks like a tourist attraction. They are normal people just going about their day. Some are happy to take a few minutes of time to talk with you, but don’t chase them down for a selfie. Greet and thank them with a simple wai gesture – hands together and a small bow – to show your respect (this is a common gesture you can use with anyone). Women should never touch a monk too, even their own mother isn’t allowed to!
• Always take off your shoes when entering the interior of a temple building. There will be signs telling you when to take them off, as well as shelves to place them on. Taking off hats and sunglasses is considered respectful, as well.
• Don’t get in the way of people who are actually there to worship! Many temples are working temples and as such, the priority is praying, not photos. Keep your voice down and enjoy the peace and quiet.
• Don’t point at a Buddha (or anyone, for that matter). Pointing is considered very rude! Don’t point your feet towards a Buddha either, always direct your feet off to the side.

Did you know that Buddha tattoos are seriously frowned upon? It is often seen as a form of blasphemy, so if you have one, consider hiding it when in Thailand, especially in temples!

Final Thoughts

Thailand is truly an incredible country, and the ease with which visitors can get around its beautiful and diverse sights makes it perfect as an introduction to the wider South East Asia region. With such a wide range of landscapes, cultural activities and history, this is one country that needs to be visited. I hope this itinerary helps you plan a fantastic trip!

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