The places you need to visit in Cape Verde
Africa Cape Verde

The 4 Places You Need to See in Cape Verde

Cape Verde, or Cabo Verde, is not usually one to make a travel bucket list. A small archipelago 500km off the west coast of Africa, this country is often overlooked; a big mistake, in my opinion. Originally colonised by the Portuguese, the ten main islands were completely uninhabited until the European settlers created a stopping point here for the African slave trade. Independent since 1975, Cape Verde is one of the most liberal and democratic countries in Africa, making it a perfect destination for anyone wanting to get away from the typical tourist routes. It has beaches, volcanos, marine wildlife, culture and a rich, if typically grim, history – what more could you want?

The most incredible thing about Cape Verde is how different each island is. Those in the east are barren, sandy and mostly flat, whereas the further west you go the more lush and mountainous they become. Jumping from east to west feels like travelling to a completely different part of the planet.

Like most places I travel to, I wish I had had more time to explore. Though I lived there for four months, working with a sea turtle conservation organisation, it was only during my last week there that I was able to do any travel. There’s so much to see and do, how can you choose which islands to visit or what to fit into a limited time frame? To help you out, here are my recommendations for the must-see places in Cape Verde.

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1. Sal

Sal is the most touristy of all ten islands, which means that it sees by far the most international visitors each year. Its sandy beaches are lined with resorts, world-class kite-surfers travel from around the world to test their mettle on its east coast, and restaurants abound in its two main towns, Santa Maria and Espargos. The island is sandy and dusty, the skies are blue (350 days a year!) and the water warm. You just might be left wondering how this sandy place could be part of a country called Cape Verde.

At only 30km long, this island is really easy to explore in a short amount of time, though you do need a car if you want to see some of the northern side of Sal, which I absolutely recommend doing as it has some of the most dramatic scenery.

Read more: My favourite places on Sal Island

Kite Beach on Sal Island, Cape Verde
Monte Grande, Sal's highest peak, Cape Verde

Side note: if you’re only going to visit one place in Cape Verde, and you’re not there for the water sports, then I’d recommend skipping Sal entirely and checking out one of the following places instead:

2. Santo Antão

By far my favourite place in Cape Verde, Santo Antão is a world away from the golden beaches and flat land of Sal. At the opposite end of the Cape Verde spectrum, in term of both location and scenery, Santo Antão has high sea cliffs, roaring waves, lush forest and hiking aplenty. It’s some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen, rivalling parts of New Zealand, even.

There are many hikes you can do on the island if you have the time, the best and probably most well-known being the Cova Crater walk. Wander through the crater of an extinct volcano before meandering down a steep stony path through lush fields as you stare out over Ribeira Grande, a steep-sided valley not unlike that of Jurassic Park.

Also worth doing is the cliff walk from Ponta do Sol to Fontainhas, one of the most beautiful little villages I’ve ever seen. My jaw fully dropped when we turned the corner and saw the little place nestled into the terraces of the steep hills around it. Walk down into the town and have a drink at one of the terrace bars before heading back to Ponto do Sol or continuing to the next village.

With no airport, Santo Antão is a little harder to get to than some of the other islands, but there are regular ferries across from São Vicente.

Recommended accommodation: Black Mamba in Paul. Not only is it beautifully decorated and right by the sea, but the restaurant downstairs does really, really good pizza.

The Cova Crater hike on Santo Antao, Cape Verde
The village of Fontainhas on Santo Antao, Cape Verde

3. Mindelo

Speaking of São Vicente, Santo Antão’s smaller neighbour is the cultural capital of Cape Verde, with its main town, Mindelo, a hub for Cape Verdean music and food. I wish I could have spent more time exploring this island, as the countryside around Mindelo looks absolutely stunning, but due to limited time it functioned mostly as a gateway to Santo Antão. I really liked the atmosphere in Mindelo, the music I could hear drifting from the many little bars and restaurants, the lovely beach busy with locals relaxing and playing soccer.

Monte Verde is the island’s highest peak and the site of some really good hiking, while the bay on which Mindelo sits has been voted one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Sit for a while on a terrace overlooking the water with some good food and a cool drink, and you won’t wish for anything else.

Recommended accommodation: Simabo’s Backpacker Hostel, which is not just accommodation for humans, but for rescued cats and dogs as well. You can even spend some time volunteering with them. Those pups and kitties need cuddles!

Mindelo, the main city of Sao Vicente, Cape Verde
The bay of Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde

4. Cidade Velha

Outside of Praia, this was the only place on the island of Santiago I visited, but it was reason enough to come to Cape Verde’s main island. What used to be the capital of Cape Verde is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the country’s one and only) and going there feels like stepping back in time, back to the era of buccaneers and pirate ships.

Cobbled streets lead to historic squares where slavers once traded their unfortunate wares, rows of beautiful, painted stone houses lie under the shade of palm trees and white-washed churches sit proudly under the blue sky. Above the town is a reconstructed Portuguese fort, offering stunning vistas across the town and the Atlantic Ocean. Only forty minutes by bus from Praia (which doesn’t have much else to do), it’s easy to get to and absolutely worth the trip.

Read more: UNESCO World Heritage Sites – Where I’ve Been

Recommended accommodation: Staying in the capital city Praia is your best bet. The hostel I stayed in is no longer in business, but there are several other accommodation options in the city.

The historic streets of Cidade Velha, Cape Verde
The fort at Cidade Velha, Cape Verde

Other Places in Cape Verde I Wish I’d Visited:

Fogo

Translated as ‘fire’, this island got its name from the very prominent volcano that makes up much of the island. It’s a popular hike that can be done in about six hours and the desolate scenery looks incredible.

Brava

The smallest island in Cape Verde, it is also the greenest, with lush forest covering its volcanic shores. The landscape around the main town of Nova Sintra looks heavenly, so it’s no wonder it was named after Sintra, possibly the most beautiful town in Portugal.

Practical Information:

  • The Cape Verdean currency is the escudo, which is tied to the euro at 110:1. On the island of Sal, many places accept euros, where it is usually converted at the more convenient rate of 100:1.
  • Flights to Cape Verde go mainly to Sal or Praia, with direct flights from several countries including the UK, Belgium, Germany, Brazil, Spain and Portugal. Domestic flights between most of the islands go regularly depending on which island you want to get to. Santo Antão and Brava’s airports are both closed, though there are plans to build a new one on SA. The national airline is Cabo Verde Airlines (formerly known as TACV).
  • The official language is Portuguese Creole, with many Cape Verdeans learning Portuguese in school. It’s really only on the more popular islands that English is easy to find. Sal and Praia shouldn’t be a problem in this regards, but in the less-visited islands, you could find a language barrier. Spanish is also a useful language to have because it’s quite similar to Portuguese.
  • Visitors from Europe, USA, UK, Canada and Brazil do not need a visa for a stay of up to 30 days, with most West African countries allowed to stay visa-free for up to 90 days. Almost all other countries can get a visa-on-arrival.
  • Accommodation, food and drink prices are slightly lower than in Europe, but are not as cheap as you might expect from an African country. Soft drinks and snacks in particular are around the same as you’d pay back home. You’ll find everything from budget hostels to guesthouses to five-star resorts.

Have you ever been to Cape Verde? Had you even heard about it before? Tell me your thoughts in the comments below!

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2 Comments

  1. […] Read more: The Places You Need to See in Cape Verde […]

  2. […] Cidade Velha, Historic Centre of Ribeira Grande. A hot and dusty afternoon well-spent strolling around the original capital  city of Cape […]

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